Cordylines are evergreen architectural plants with long, sword-shaped leaves arranged in an attractive fountain-like shape. Their upright growth and year-round colour make them excellent focal points for pots, patios and garden borders.
Selected varieties of Cordyline australis can be grown outdoors in milder parts of the UK. They perform best in warm, sheltered positions with well-drained soil and may need protection during cold winter weather.
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Why grow cordylines in pots?
Cordylines add height without occupying a large amount of patio space. Growing them in containers also makes it easier to move young or colourful plants beside a sheltered wall when severe weather is forecast.
- Evergreen foliage and year-round structure
- Sword-shaped leaves with a bold architectural appearance
- A tropical or Mediterranean-style effect
- Good drought tolerance once established
- Suitability for patios, borders and smaller gardens
Two standout Cordylines
Both varieties work well as feature plants, but their foliage creates very different moods.
Cordyline 'Torbay Dazzler': bright variegated foliage
- Best for: cream-and-green foliage, bright patio displays and coastal-style planting
View Cordyline 'Torbay Dazzler'
Cordyline 'Charlie Boy': pink and burgundy colour
For a richer display, ‘Charlie Boy’ combines burgundy or bronze colouring with vivid reddish-pink margins. The foliage provides strong contrast alongside silver-leaved plants, ornamental grasses and flowers in white, pale pink or purple.
Choose it for colourful patio containers, tropical planting schemes and contemporary garden designs. Give it full sun or partial shade and fertile, well-drained soil.
- Best for: dramatic colour, modern containers and exotic-style borders
Which variety should you choose?
Choose Torbay Dazzler if you want bright, fresh foliage with a coastal feel, thanks to its green leaves with creamy-yellow margins. Choose Charlie Boy if you prefer a bolder, more contemporary look, with burgundy-bronze foliage edged in vibrant pink.
How to plant a Cordyline in a pot
Choose a broad, sturdy container with unobstructed drainage holes. Mature cordylines can become top-heavy, so a substantial pot is more stable than a lightweight planter.
COMPOST For long-term container growing, use peat-free John Innes No. 3 with added horticultural grit for drainage.
- Add enough compost to position the root ball at its existing depth.
- Remove the Cordyline carefully from its nursery pot.
- Place it centrally and fill around the roots with compost.
- Firm gently, water thoroughly and allow excess water to drain.
- Raise the container on pot feet to maintain drainage through winter.
The best position Choose full sun or light partial shade in a warm, sheltered position. Protection from cold winds is valuable because persistent wind can tear or mark the leaves.Variegated and coloured varieties may benefit from light shade during the hottest part of the day.
In borders, avoid frost pockets and soil that remains waterlogged over winter. A position beside a south- or west-facing wall can provide a more favourable microclimate.
Create a Mediterranean-style display
Pair Cordylines with olives, agapanthus, lavender and ornamental grasses to create a layered, drought-tolerant display. Keep companion plants lower so the Cordyline’s fountain of sword-shaped foliage remains visible.
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Watering and feeding
Water regularly while the plant establishes. In pots, water more often from spring to early autumn and let excess drain freely. Feed periodically until late summer.
Hardiness and winter protection
APPROXIMATE HARDINESS ‘Torbay Dazzler’ and ‘Charlie Boy’ are generally hardy to around −5°C in sheltered, well-drained positions. This is an approximate limit, not a guarantee.
Hardiness depends on the plant’s maturity, the length of the cold spell, exposure to wind, winter drainage and whether the roots are in a pot or in the ground. Young plants, coloured cultivars and container-grown cordylines may be damaged at higher temperatures.
Protecting a potted Cordyline
- Move the pot beside a sheltered house wall.
- Raise it on feet and keep the drainage holes clear.
- Wrap the container with hessian or insulating material during cold spells.
- Protect the leaves and stem with horticultural fleece.
- Move smaller plants into a frost-free porch, greenhouse or conservatory.
- Keep the compost fairly dry during winter without letting it become completely parched.
Do you prune a Cordyline?
Cordylines do not normally need routine pruning. Their natural fountain of sword-shaped leaves is their main feature, so unnecessary cutting can spoil the shape.
- Remove old brown lower leaves when they pull away easily.
- Cut off faded flower stems if they are no longer attractive.
- Wait until spring before removing frost-damaged leaves or stems.
TIMING MATTERS - Leave frost-damaged growth in place until spring so you can see which parts remain healthy and avoid exposing the plant to further cold.
Cordyline questions
Can Cordylines remain in pots permanently?
Yes. They can remain in containers for many years if they have sufficient root space, freedraining compost and regular summer watering and feeding.
Are Cordylines palm trees?
No. They are often called cabbage palms because mature plants develop a palm-like appearance, but they are not true palms.
Why are the leaves turning brown?
Older lower leaves naturally turn brown. Brown tips can also be caused by frost, cold wind, dry compost or irregular watering.
Can a frost-damaged Cordyline recover?
Yes. It may produce new shoots from healthy parts of the trunk or from the base. Wait until spring before removing damaged growth.
Can Cordylines grow in partial shade?
Yes. Both featured varieties tolerate partial shade, although deep shade may weaken growth and reduce foliage colour.